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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I have a Dacia Sandero which i bought new in 2019 (April).

If i have to do a hill start just after starting the car up, then the clutch is prone to juddering a bit.

It doesnt stop me from driving though.

I tend to quickly get into second gear and then its ok.

It doesnt always judder....i find in first gear its necessary to have the revs reasonably high when hill starting. I find i need to kind of "slip" the clutch in.....

In fact, what i do , which reduces or avoids juddering, is kind of slip the clutch and rev up, to kind of get on a different "connection" of the clutch, then go off like that, without juddering, or reducing juddering.. ...Its hard to describe.

Either way, when the car is warm, after a longish journey, the clutch is ok in first gear and it doesnt judder then.

The car has always been like this. I didnt mention it on the first service as i had just changed jobs and desperately needed the car for work, and so was scared they may embark on a fix and possibly make it worse. After all, it doesnt stop me driving the car.
 

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Hi my 2016 Sandero is exactly the same. From what I have read this is a very common issue and seems to be a design floor.

When cold mine will judder if the clutch is lifted too quickly or too slowly and it has taken a good while to get used to it and learn to counteract, but extra throttle when setting off seems to help. As with yours mine's fine once warm and also once into 2nd and upwards.
 

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It's a common problem these days. The material used in clutch plates has to be environmentally friendly now and cold juddering is the cost of that. I also drive a Mazda 2 and a Renault Kajar they they both do it. I had a Nissan Pulsar too that was the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks, i must admit i'm getting used to it and kind of getting a "feel" for the clutch, and it happens less and less now......i kind of "feel" the clutch in whilst keeping the revs high enough and its ok.

I often don't let the clutch pedal out in one movement, but kind of go up, press down a bit, then back up, and kind of "guide" the clutch into solid contact.

I imagine i could have payed £50,000 for a car that does this by some electronics guidance system, but thats too much money
 

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I have a Sandero and a Logan - same ages and specs. The Sandero's clutch doesn't judder at all first thing in the morning while the Logan's does. I guess that, because they were made in different factories, it's down to the local materials used. As people have reported this juddering stops after 1/2 mile or so when the clutch materials have warmed up a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have dacia sandero access......clutch judder is when you stay too long in 1st gear i find.......if you need to be in first for long then i kind of slip and rev (pump) the clutch gently so it doesnt judder...but generally i get into 2nd quickly as the 1st is only to get you moving...then with the revs high enough, go into second.

So i have no probz with my dacia clutch now......1st is only to get you moving in dacia sandy i find......but i find the clutch fine now........its just getting into it....but its not hard really....im a poor driver and i managed it fine.
But yeah you also need the revs high enough when going first to second, and be smooth with the clutch, dont dump it out....let it out smoothly.......i have the clutch off to a tee now on the sandero...i can get off quickly at traffic lights and leave people behind....well unless its a leccy tesla on full burn.
 

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I noticed that if I open the throttle more when on cold start and ride the the clutch longer when pulling away these symptoms are alleviated.
It made me think it is more to do with fuel mapping on a near closed throttle but the engine is running on an enriched cold start fuel ratio. Hence it is much better in summer than winter.
I have also noticed that on my 1.2tce duster the revs automatically increase as soon as load from the clutch is realised by the ecu!
Instead of trying to feather the throttle and creep away with a cold engine give more throttle and ride the clutch until you are on your way.
 

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I noticed that if I open the throttle more when on cold start and ride the the clutch longer when pulling away these symptoms are alleviated.
It made me think it is more to do with fuel mapping on a near closed throttle but the engine is running on an enriched cold start fuel ratio. Hence it is much better in summer than winter.
I have also noticed that on my 1.2tce duster the revs automatically increase as soon as load from the clutch is realised by the ecu!
Instead of trying to feather the throttle and creep away with a cold engine give more throttle and ride the clutch until you are on your way.
Drop her in 6th gear slip clutch 5 seconds juddering cured for a month

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

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Hi,

I have a Dacia Sandero which i bought new in 2019 (April).

If i have to do a hill start just after starting the car up, then the clutch is prone to juddering a bit.

It doesnt stop me from driving though.

I tend to quickly get into second gear and then its ok.

It doesnt always judder....i find in first gear its necessary to have the revs reasonably high when hill starting. I find i need to kind of "slip" the clutch in.....

In fact, what i do , which reduces or avoids juddering, is kind of slip the clutch and rev up, to kind of get on a different "connection" of the clutch, then go off like that, without juddering, or reducing juddering.. ...Its hard to describe.

Either way, when the car is warm, after a longish journey, the clutch is ok in first gear and it doesnt judder then.

The car has always been like this. I didnt mention it on the first service as i had just changed jobs and desperately needed the car for work, and so was scared they may embark on a fix and possibly make it worse. After all, it doesnt stop me driving the car.
I have the same issues with my Stepway, 6,000 miles on the clock it started at 4,000. The car has been in for service three times the dealer says they can find no problem. Its intermittent, they said it could be the way the car is driven I have driven for over 50 years and never have had problems with a clutch and they tell me a clutch is not covered by warranty. They say there is nothing they can do unless they witness the fault but I have now approached Trading Standards and Dacia direct, if they don't resolve the problem I will never purchase from them again and will put off anyone who might be considering. They sold me a vehicle with what is obviously a very common fault but I am not optimistic on the outcome.
 

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I
I have the same issues with my Stepway, 6,000 miles on the clock it started at 4,000. The car has been in for service three times the dealer says they can find no problem. Its intermittent, they said it could be the way the car is driven I have driven for over 50 years and never have had problems with a clutch and they tell me a clutch is not covered by warranty. They say there is nothing they can do unless they witness the fault but I have now approached Trading Standards and Dacia direct, if they don't resolve the problem I will never purchase from them again and will put off anyone who might be considering. They sold me a vehicle with what is obviously a very common fault but I am not optimistic on the outcome.
I've said it before.
It's not a clutch problem.
You and others are associating it with the clutch as it is when you are engaging the clutch the problem arises.
It is fueling of the engine. Open the throttle a little more.
The fuel injection is not refined enough on a very small throttle opening, especially on cold start. The ecu is in effect switching fuel off and on via the injectors many times a second as it senses a fall in revs and a near closed throttle.
Press the throttle pedal more.
 

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Agree. There is no physical connection between the accelerator pedal and the engine. The ecu decides how much fuel is injected and it is probably the anti stall kicking in. Press the throttle more and the ecu will not inject anymore fuel than the mapping allows.

I keep trying to explain on this forum that in icy condition and can't get going you should release the clutch and floor the pedal and let the traction control sort it out but get shot down.

People need to accept the accelerator pedal is no longer connected by a cable to a carburetor.
 

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2020 Sandero Stepway, 1977 MGB Roadster
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It’s reassuring to read the replies from Bernard S and Daedalus, so thanks to you both. Having driven a more ’sophisticated’ VW diesel for the previous 10 years I struggled with the engagement of the clutch until it occurred to me that it might be the fuelling. At times it also seems a bit iffy on a light throttle. This was confirmed when I drove my MGB with its throttle cable - smooth take-up, no problem. So it‘s not my rubbish driving. We don’t drive cars nowadays, we drive computers.

Thanks again.
 

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It’s reassuring to read the replies from Bernard S and Daedalus, so thanks to you both. Having driven a more ’sophisticated’ VW diesel for the previous 10 years I struggled with the engagement of the clutch until it occurred to me that it might be the fuelling. At times it also seems a bit iffy on a light throttle. This was confirmed when I drove my MGB with its throttle cable - smooth take-up, no problem. So it‘s not my rubbish driving. We don’t drive cars nowadays, we drive computers.

Thanks again.
Sure.
Just spin it up a little more then feed in the clutch, even if it means riding the clutch initially.

My motorcycling days are over but my passion was Italian vtwins.
Maneuvering in say a car park or other tight place once can not leave the clutch fully out as there is next to no flywheel weight and close to tick over revs a stall is imminent.
One keeps the revs up a little and feeds the clutch in and out as required!

The only way to fix this issue with modern cars or those that experience this is to go and speak to a performance specialist that may be able to modify the fuel map to suit driving habits. Other than that, we, the non computer can adapt our driving to suit the vehicle.
 

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Agree. There is no physical connection between the accelerator pedal and the engine. The ecu decides how much fuel is injected and it is probably the anti stall kicking in. Press the throttle more and the ecu will not inject anymore fuel than the mapping allows.

I keep trying to explain on this forum that in icy condition and can't get going you should release the clutch and floor the pedal and let the traction control sort it out but get shot down.

People need to accept the accelerator pedal is no longer connected by a cable to a carburetor.
Did not know that, thanks for sharing - explains me trying to control the car in second over traffic bumps outside my house uphill. it's not just my rubbich throttle control!
 

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The throttle body is opened and closed by a stepper motor solely controlled by the ecu. The accelerator pedal turns a potentiometer (usually 2 for redundancy ) which supplies a voltage to the ecu sometimes called "the driver's wish" and the ecu acts accordingly as programmed. With emission control legislation it is becoming less and less likely to grant all the driver wishes for.
 

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The fuel mapping and ecu control of the throttle is to put it frankly, is so crude that I can when I wish, hold the pedal so as to allow a slow and constant acceleration feel the steps the throttle is opened.
The mass of the vehicle soaks the steps up so it is bearable. If the same system was fitted to a light motorcycle it would be unbearable!
 
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