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a few days of driving the 1.5 laureate and I do notice that the engine is very clattery and noisy. My previous cars were petrol so I'm used to a fairly quiet drive. The noise of the duster isnt particularly noticeable at any speed, once up to ten miles per hour or more it fades to insignificance but certainly very clattery at idle. No moans though, it sounds like a jeep.
The're ways to minimize that.

First, the so-called noise barrier (hahahaha) put in by Dacia under the bonnet is really just for visual purposes.

1) unclip this black cloth thing.

2) degrease the inner metal of the bonnet : don't skip on this if you want to avoid problems with step 3.

3) apply Alubutyl sheets there (don't worry, they won't fall off when applied correctly on a degreased surface)

4) on top of that alubutyl, put a good layer of sound deadening material that's temperature/oil resistant and designed for use "under the bonnet/in the motor compartment"

5) clip the official noise barrier back in place

6) take off the under metal engine protection plate. If you don't have a chrome front bar, it's very easy to do. If you have the chrome bar, it IS possible to do it without taking the chrome bar off, but it's .... fiddly.

7) degrease it

8) put in a layer of the same Alubutyl, making sure you cut out the holes for oil/water present in the metal plate

9) use the same oil/temperature resistant material on top of that (-> the Lodgy uses the same trick standard "from factory")

10) and place the whole thing back

If need be, you can still use a lead-lined engine blanket from Noisekiller placed "over" your engine, between engine and firewall. Don't fear overheating, your engine still gets more than enough fresh air. But even without the blanket and just by insulating bonnet and under metal plate, you'll find the sound of the diesel engine has lowered significantly.

If you want to get quieter still, you'll need to get under the carpet inside the car, and remove it at the footarea. Normally, you'll find a piece of styrofoam (not joking) underneath. Remove it, but do not discard it, you'll have to place it back. The inside of the firewall is covered with a rubbery-feeling material, which is screwed to the firewall. Loosen the screws so you can get underneath. Stick Alubutyl as high as possible underneath it. Cover the Wheel arches while your at it too. Use sound-deadening material at your own discression under there too.

Fix everything back in place.

As a last step, you can shove sound isolation material "as high as possible" up under the dashboard on passenger and drivers' side. Be careful with the heating pipes and varioius tubes and lines though.

It's half a day worth of work, but having a car that drives a lot quieter for the next 5 to 10 years is well worth the time and money spended, and the material cost is negligable.
 
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Reactions: Jay Duster

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What about the Diesel particulate filter?
There are several types, ..... would be nice if someone could describe how the specific type of DPF on the Duster works, and what to watch out for; and how to help it live a long and useful life.
D&S, your post #9 sent me scurrying off to find out more about DPFs (and issues). The particular Renault link below made me feel a little better (if the Duster has the same system):

http://www.renault.com/en/innovation/gamme-mecanique/pages/fap-injecteur-int%C3%A9gr%C3%A9.aspx

However, here is another Renault link:

http://www.renault.co.uk/about/innovations/fap.aspx

which seems to contradict the 1st link with respect to town driving etc. (I personally do not do much town stop/start driving so guess I'll be OK whatever the truth.)

Any thoughts anyone?
 

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amazing, just amazing!
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Wait and see?

I can see it being a problem for a London Cabbie but as long as you do at least some long distance driving (and even London Cabbies do that) there won't be an issue.
 

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Yeah, the fish - now that I can "see" it !!

Re DPFs: I don't doubt you are right (post #24). I do think, though, that some users might like to know which of the Renault statements (in the links I offered) also relate to Dacias. For example:

1st link says " It works : .... even when the vehicle is stationery or the engine is idling, in traffic jams or in the city, for example "

while the 2nd link says " However, minimum speeds of at least 8-12 mph will be necessary to instigate a regeneration " and, it also says " *FAP technology may not be suitable for vehicles that are constantly in urban cycle. eg. Lots of short journeys where the vehicle does not reach optimal operating temperature "

Of course, it might be that the varying advice provided by Renault does not apply to Dacias at all!

I'm personally not too worried, given my envisaged Duster usage, but there may be some folk who will be buying low-cost diesel Dacias (or other brands) as a family "taxi" for school-runs etc and not much else.

Interestingly, my elderly father was recently warned off going with a new Astra diesel by a Vauxhall dealer taking into account that his motoring largely consists of short shopping runs. A petrol version was recommended and I'm beginning to think the dealer offered good advice (in the circumstances).

Rob A
 

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Does Dacia use a "thin" oil for running in the engine?

I have done 961 miles in 2 weeks, is it advisable to ask for an oil & filter change ?
No standard C4 5/30. Don't bother changing yet. In the USA many cars using a similar oil are "sealed for life"with warranties running up to 12 years! We're a bit oil paranoid I think... Just the way the oil companies like it. Dacia/Elf partnership?!
 

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Azurite Blue Sandero Stepway dCi 63 plate (2013) with permanent dashboard illumination.
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Hi folks. Need some help here. My 2014 duster needs a new propshaft. Having difficulty finding one. Could someone tell me if a logan propshaft would fit my duster please?
Hi !

The Logan doesn't have a prop shaft as it's only front wheel drive !
ohmy.png
 
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