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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The visibility of the dashboard by day is very poor. Switching on the side lights cures the problem but also ensures that any correctly fitted DRLs are extinguished !

Clearly the solution is to locate the feed to the dash which is live when the sidelights are ON and cut the wire. Then connect the end which feeds the dashboard lamps to a supply which is live when the ignition is ON. This will ensure that the dashboard illumination is ON whenever the car is being driven !

Is electrical wiring data available ?
 

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The visibility of the dashboard by day is very poor. Switching on the side lights cures the problem but also ensures that any correctly fitted DRLs are extinguished !

Clearly the solution is to locate the feed to the dash which is live when the sidelights are ON and cut the wire. Then connect the end which feeds the dashboard lamps to a supply which is live when the ignition is ON. This will ensure that the dashboard illumination is ON whenever the car is being driven !

Is electrical wiring data available ?
I would like to find out where that is wired to also, Its on the sidelight circuit somewhere but exactly where is the question... As that is a better option than fitting and additional light that would be ignition switched.
 

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Roldorf

...thanks for the link - I'd be very interested in rewiring the dashboard lights to switch on with the ignition, rather than only with the headlights...

...any chance you could interpret the German wiring diagrams for us, and provide a few step-by-step instructions?...

...I, and others, would be very grateful...

Joe
 

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DerBaum says:-
Instruments permanent lit.
This can also be achieved without modifying the wiring by programming (at his home).

Takes approx 1.5 hrs (with smoke breaks)
Materials required.

50cm cable
2 diodes typ 1N4001, 4002, ...3, ...4
soldering iron
solder
side cutters
shrink fit tube
insulating tape
cable ties
torx screwdriver.

Disconnect the battery
Remove the UCH (I think this is the control box) and unclip the black connector plug. Remove some of the insulation from the wires.
Un-clip the indicator switch connector.

Info. The instrument panel has no connector for the lighting but receives a signal over the can bus from the UCH. The UCH has has a connection on pin 20 on the black module for the side lights.

He got his diodes from an old transformer he had lying about but you could also get them from Maplin.

Find the blue cable on the black connector from the UCH (pin 20) and is on the outside of the connector.
cut the cable leaving plenty of room for insulation of the cut cables.
Remove some insulation from the cable and slip a length of shrink tube over the connector side of the cable. Solder both diodes to the cable that goes to the UCH connector. (Note the polarity of the Diodes)
Solder the other part of the cut blue cable to one of the diodes (don't forget the Shrink tube).
Solder the new cable to the remaining free diode. Warm the shrink tube to insulate the new connections.
Lead the new cable up to the indicator switch using cable ties to secure the cable.
Find pin4 on the indicator switch plug (may be beige) this is a permanent live when the ignition is on. The new cable should be spliced in to pick up a live from here. Put everything back together and test.
 

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DerBaum says:-
Instruments permanent lit.
This can also be achieved without modifying the wiring by programming (at his home).

Takes approx 1.5 hrs (with smoke breaks)
Materials required.

50cm cable
2 diodes typ 1N4001, 4002, ...3, ...4
soldering iron
solder
side cutters
shrink fit tube
insulating tape
cable ties
torx screwdriver.

Disconnect the battery
Remove the UCH (I think this is the control box) and unclip the black connector plug. Remove some of the insulation from the wires.
Un-clip the indicator switch connector.

Info. The instrument panel has no connector for the lighting but receives a signal over the can bus from the UCH. The UCH has has a connection on pin 20 on the black module for the side lights.

He got his diodes from an old transformer he had lying about but you could also get them from Maplin.

Find the blue cable on the black connector from the UCH (pin 20) and is on the outside of the connector.
cut the cable leaving plenty of room for insulation of the cut cables.
Remove some insulation from the cable and slip a length of shrink tube over the connector side of the cable. Solder both diodes to the cable that goes to the UCH connector. (Note the polarity of the Diodes)
Solder the other part of the cut blue cable to one of the diodes (don't forget the Shrink tube).
Solder the new cable to the remaining free diode. Warm the shrink tube to insulate the new connections.
Lead the new cable up to the indicator switch using cable ties to secure the cable.
Find pin4 on the indicator switch plug (may be beige) this is a permanent live when the ignition is on. The new cable should be spliced in to pick up a live from here. Put everything back together and test.
DerBaum says:-
Instruments permanent lit.
This can also be achieved without modifying the wiring by programming (at his home).

Takes approx 1.5 hrs (with smoke breaks)
Materials required.

50cm cable
2 diodes typ 1N4001, 4002, ...3, ...4
soldering iron
solder
side cutters
shrink fit tube
insulating tape
cable ties
torx screwdriver.

Disconnect the battery
Remove the UCH (I think this is the control box) and unclip the black connector plug. Remove some of the insulation from the wires.
Un-clip the indicator switch connector.

Info. The instrument panel has no connector for the lighting but receives a signal over the can bus from the UCH. The UCH has has a connection on pin 20 on the black module for the side lights.

He got his diodes from an old transformer he had lying about but you could also get them from Maplin.

Find the blue cable on the black connector from the UCH (pin 20) and is on the outside of the connector.
cut the cable leaving plenty of room for insulation of the cut cables.
Remove some insulation from the cable and slip a length of shrink tube over the connector side of the cable. Solder both diodes to the cable that goes to the UCH connector. (Note the polarity of the Diodes)
Solder the other part of the cut blue cable to one of the diodes (don't forget the Shrink tube).
Solder the new cable to the remaining free diode. Warm the shrink tube to insulate the new connections.
Lead the new cable up to the indicator switch using cable ties to secure the cable.
Find pin4 on the indicator switch plug (may be beige) this is a permanent live when the ignition is on. The new cable should be spliced in to pick up a live from here. Put everything back together and test.
Think I would prefer to pick up the live from somewhere else rather than the indicator stalk, after seeing a number of people having issues with headlights going out whilst turning...
 

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That would be interesting if the switch was a light sensor. If the light was low in the cab the switch would activate and turn on the dashboard light.
Who said it will be interesting if the switch is a light sensor...
I wonder if the Mrs will miss one of her solar lights from the garden... lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Roldorf's information and photos are most welcome. In fact, for right-hand-drive vehicles, it is unnecessary to remove the UCH ! It is located on the left hand side of the passenger foot space and is easily accessible from below the storage compartment. Removal of the black connector is simple, likewise its replacement after the diodes etc have been added. The best place for the 12v switched live is the cigar lighter and the small panel containing this and the eco switch easily pulls out towards the gear lever. ( my Duster is 2x4 ) The modification to the dash illumination is brilliant ( no pun intended ) and the DRLs function correctly. ( i.e. ON unless side or head lights are switched ON when the DRLs extinguish,

Many thanks again to Roldorf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The job took 45 minutes ( I'm a non-smoker ! ) The 1N4001 diodes cost 49 p each from Maplin and the heat-shrink tubing was in my junk box.
 

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...reading this thread with interest, as I'd really like to have my Duster's dashboard lit when the ignition is on...

...thanks very much to previous contributors for helpful advice and step by step instructions - but - I'm sorry, I'm still not getting it...

...think I'll just keep driving with (at least) my sidelights on - an old habit from driving Volvos!...

Joe
 

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...reading this thread with interest, as I'd really like to have my Duster's dashboard lit when the ignition is on...

...thanks very much to previous contributors for helpful advice and step by step instructions - but - I'm sorry, I'm still not getting it...

...think I'll just keep driving with (at least) my sidelights on - an old habit from driving Volvos!...

Joe
Joe I am going to do mine, If you want I will take photos when I do mine and send you the 2 diodes and simple to follow step by step photo instructions.
 

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Joe I am going to do mine, If you want I will take photos when I do mine and send you the 2 diodes and simple to follow step by step photo instructions.
Nessi - thanks for the offer: very interested to see the pics and maybe have your rating of difficulty on a scale of 1 to 10...

...I have worked with my normally aspirated/ignited bikes for 30 years, so I'm used to wiring/rewiring simple 'agricultural' stuff, but I haven't had to (or dared to) interfere with car electrics: too many black boxes, ECU, UCH, and diodes: I know what diodes do, but have to take it on faith that I need a pair in parallel for this job...

...thanks again to you - and many others - for the very helpful advice shared via this forum!

Joe
 
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