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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone changed the oil in a 2021 1.5 dCi using an oil extractor?
I'd quite like to change the oil after the run in period.
The tube on my Pela oil extractor is too thick.
Not planning on changing the oil filter.
Yes get a thinner tube but has anyone actually done it?
Thanks.
 

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I have a 1.5 dci Ph2 Duster. Don't even think of it. It's not possible. Here some fuel stations use this shortcut method for 2 wheelers. A workshop wouldn't do it. Do it the 'normal' way. If you have done <5k km u can retain the filter, but why not change it - the cost is insignificant. I presume u wanted to do this at at home & avoid the garage visit. Get it done in any small garage & stand by.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a 1.5 dci Ph2 Duster. Don't even think of it. It's not possible. Here some fuel stations use this shortcut method for 2 wheelers. A workshop wouldn't do it. Do it the 'normal' way. If you have done <5k km u can retain the filter, but why not change it - the cost is insignificant. I presume u wanted to do this at at home & avoid the garage visit. Get it done in any small garage & stand by.
I thought it was a long shot. The Channel for the dipstick is so narrow. I even have trouble reading the oil level.
 

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There is an advantage in this arrangement. U can't accidentally drop anything into the engine top section!

Also if u use an engine flush it goes straight to the crankcase. Most flushes would be kerosene, acetone, spirit besides other ingredients. So if it was poured through the usual oil inlet that portion of the cam & valve gear would run dry till oil reaches via the pump/ filter.

One additional advantage is that there is a short 1/2" pipe, from the original location for filling oil, taking the blowby gases back to the air intake nearer the turbo end. U can remove this pipe from the air intake plastic pipe end, check the blowby, and even spray throttle body cleaner into the intake in short intermittent bursts keeping the engine @ 2k rpm. This will clean the turbo, intercooler & throttle body (Don't spray back into the engine side). U don't need to do this now as u have a new car. It can be done later. I have done it.

Suppose this oil stick hole was big enough to insert a 1/2" pipe for suction - what would happen if the mechanic or you dropped a screw, nut or bolt into it? 🐵
 

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2020 Sandero Stepway, 1977 MGB Roadster
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I would definitely not use an engine flush. You have a filter, and modern oils carry anything finer around till they’re drained. When the flush is drained there will still be some left in the engine, which will in its turn dilute the new oil.
 

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2020 Sandero Stepway, 1977 MGB Roadster
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A mechanic or the owner is less likely to drop a screw, nut or bolt into a 1/2” pipe than they are into the recognised 2” oil filler hole in the top of the engine - not that I would use a filler pipe, even if there was such a thing.
 

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Anyone changed the oil in a 2021 1.5 dCi using an oil extractor?
I'd quite like to change the oil after the run in period.
The tube on my Pela oil extractor is too thick.
Not planning on changing the oil filter.
Yes get a thinner tube but has anyone actually done it?
Thanks.
I've removed the sump plug and replaced it with a Stahlbus oil change valve and cut a hole in the engine guard.
When I want to do an oil change I just need to unscrew cap and push in oil change pipe holder and drain straight into an empty 5lt container, undo drainer and fill up. If you happen to overfill you can easily drain a little bit out.
 

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Anyone changed the oil in a 2021 1.5 dCi using an oil extractor?
I'd quite like to change the oil after the run in period.
The tube on my Pela oil extractor is too thick.
Not planning on changing the oil filter.
Yes get a thinner tube but has anyone actually done it?
Thanks.
Yes, I've extracted engine oil using a vacuum pump - but only as a last resort if it looked like the previous 'technician' had destroyed the sump-plug threads or alike - evidence of PTFE tape is a giveaway..
You need a vacuum pump that comes with a small diameter tube - the smallest dia tubes available seem to be copper rather than plastic - my copper tube has fitted down all the dipstick holes I've tried.
I would normally agree with previous comments about changing the oil filter too - but I think some might have overlooked that you're trying to preserve the originality of your new car & you don't want your Renault / Dacia garage knowing you've been tampering whilst it's in warranty.
Personally, I think you are worrying too much about this - running-in periods are now either non existent or a few hundred miles tops - the manufacturing tolerances applied to modern engines means you are no longer shaving off metal particles in the engine as it settles in.
 

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Anyone changed the oil in a 2021 1.5 dCi using an oil extractor?
I'd quite like to change the oil after the run in period.
The tube on my Pela oil extractor is too thick.
Not planning on changing the oil filter.
Yes get a thinner tube but has anyone actually done it?
Thanks.
If you really feel the need to change the oil why not just drain it normally? The sump guard isn't that difficult to remove. Personally I wouldn't bother though because the run in process is a thing of the past and oil is completely different to the of oil in the 70s and 80s.

By all means drive the car nicely whilst everything beds in but otherwise running in doesn't really exist these days
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you really feel the need to change the oil why not just drain it normally? The sump guard isn't that difficult to remove. Personally I wouldn't bother though because the run in process is a thing of the past and oil is completely different to the of oil in the 70s and 80s.

By all means drive the car nicely whilst everything beds in but otherwise running in doesn't really exist these days
The manual says "Full power will not be achieved until 3,500 miles! The engine felt tight at first but I can feel the difference after 1,500 miles.So something is going on!!
 

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The manual says "Full power will not be achieved until 3,500 miles! The engine felt tight at first but I can feel the difference after 1,500 miles.So something is going on!!
It is but unlike old engines there aren't bits of metal flying around in the oil, we're talking about things loosening up, bedding in, but not metal wearing against metal so the running in service is not necessary on modern mass produced cars.

30 years plus ago you would hear of high mileage cars needing engine rebuilds, this is extremely rare now and cars are regularly doing 150k and much more.
 

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Dacia Duster 2018 1.5 diesel 115 addblue and a 2013 Sandero 1.5 dci Ambience
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I change oil at 5k intervals diesel or petrol , if the stealer says 10, 000 miles halve it.
never ever use engine flush Ive seen to many hydraulic tappets die when engine flush is used in the engine and dont mess to much with additives in your engine and gearbox p.t.f.e and silicone additives cause more gearbox troubles than gear oil alone.
if you want to flush the engine use a slightly cheaper oil and drive it properly for an hour then change it for new oil.
 

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I change oil at 5k intervals diesel or petrol , if the stealer says 10, 000 miles halve it.
never ever use engine flush Ive seen to many hydraulic tappets die when engine flush is used.
Totally agree with this, engine flushes are basically Kerosene so you are effectively diluting your oil with kerosene. If you use modern synthetic oils and change the regularly you will never suffer from sludge anyway.

I understand the Dacia service intervals are two years or 18K miles, my recommendation would be to halve it as this will be more beneficial to your engine and ensure a longer life.
 
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