I think that an article for forum members on your experience and modification would be of interest. Thanks.

 

Re my recent post - spare wheel access - here I describe a simple steel cable mechanism that lowers / raises the spare wheel.
1. Working inside the boot, drill a 3mm hole through the top of the wheel latch housing - 10 mm forward of the 17 mm latch bolt head.
2. With the wheel cradle lowered, create a keyhole shaped hole in the middle of the plate that is welded across the cradle swivelling 'D' latch plate, by drilling a 4 mm hole in the exact centre of the plate and an 8 mm hole 10 mm forward of the 4 mm hole. Then cut or file a slot joining both holes.
3. Using a stainless steel bicycle brake inner cable, engage the ball end into the 8 mm hole and slide to lock it at the 4 mm end. Thread the other end of the cable up through the rectangular latch hook housing and through the 3 mm hole into the boot.
4. Working in the boot - make simple handle out of a 100 mm piece of plastic tube through which the cable is threaded and secured to itself with a clamp ( I used an screwed electrical terminal block).
5. Test the installation by pulling up the handle to ensure that the 'D' latch engages the latching hook. Then pull up the handle slightly and at the same time pushing the 17 mm bolt head forward to unlatch the hook so the cradle can be lowered to the ground.

It works works first time every time on my car. I will send some photos to the Forum editor.
My next post will be - How to modify the wheel cradle for smooth access.

 

Re my recent post - spare wheel access - here I describe a simple steel cable mechanism that lowers / raises the spare wheel.
1. Working inside the boot, drill a 3mm hole through the top of the wheel latch housing - 10 mm forward of the 17 mm latch bolt head.
2. With the wheel cradle lowered, create a keyhole shaped hole in the middle of the plate that is welded across the cradle swivelling 'D' latch plate, by drilling a 4 mm hole in the exact centre of the plate and an 8 mm hole 10 mm forward of the 4 mm hole. Then cut or file a slot joining both holes.
3. Using a stainless steel bicycle brake inner cable, engage the ball end into the 8 mm hole and slide to lock it at the 4 mm end. Thread the other end of the cable up through the rectangular latch hook housing and through the 3 mm hole into the boot.
4. Working in the boot - make simple handle out of a 100 mm piece of plastic tube through which the cable is threaded and secured to itself with a clamp ( I used an screwed electrical terminal block).
5. Test the installation by pulling up the handle to ensure that the 'D' latch engages the latching hook. Then pull up the handle slightly and at the same time pushing the 17 mm bolt head forward to unlatch the hook so the cradle can be lowered to the ground.
It works works first time every time on my car. I will send some photos to the Forum editor.
My next post will be - How to modify the wheel cradle for smooth access.

 

Duster spare wheel access - The existing metal rod cradle does not allow the spare wheel to be slid in or out easily. A simple modification cures this problem.
1. Using 10 to 15mm thick exterior grade plywood, cut a piece 640mm x 170mm.
2. Cover one side with a layer of heavy duty polypropylene plastic - I cut up a 40 litre 'Flexi-tub' (£4 from B&Q) using garden shears. Secure it to the board with stainless steel gun staples (screwfix code 5309J) or screwed countersunk washers.
3. Place the board onto the cradle frame and secure in place using 10mm cable or pipe clips from underneath.
The spare wheel will now slide in and out easily.
I will try to send some photos to accompany my posts.