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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone.

This is driving me completey mental.

Every so often the car refuses to go into any gear.

It usually starts off with the gears feeling clunky and sounding noisy when changing before completely stopping working.

I've tried everything from completely lifting the clutch to trying to force the gearstick into any gear, none of which works.

The only thing that works is to pull over, turn the engine off completely and sit for five to ten minutes.

When i turn it back on again everything is usually completely back to normal.

I've had the car in at the dealer who changed the gearbox oil looking for metal shreds but found nothing.

When I told them it was an intermitant fault and that it usually only happens when driving for a decent period of time, they weren't overly helpful, stating that I'd jus thave to call the breakdown team when it happens.

This isn't accepteble at all as it's usually my wife who drives the car and I'm not happy with her having the kids in a car that simply can't be trusted to last the journey without potentially coming to a halt on either a busy road or a motorway.

Does anyone have any clues, firstly what it could be and secondly who i could contact at Dacia to get this taken further.

Apologies for the long post but I'm going crazy here.

Cheers

Mark
 

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Most gear-box 'problems' start at the clutch. So if the clutch isn't releasing, the usual suspects, in order, are low fluid (check brake fluid reservoir) , air in hydraulic lines, loss of fluid pressure either at the master or slave cylinder (seals) , contaminated/worn clutch disk/springs or worn clutch/release bearing, or flywheel problems.

After fluid and cylinder checks the transmission has to come out to check flywheel and clutch etc. I don't know if the slave cylinder is accessible externally on the Dacias. If it is then diagnosis is bit simpler.

So the first cheap check would be to bleed and replace the hydraulic fluid, even if no leaks are found.

If you force the gear stick around it will cause damage to the transmission.

If the transmission has to come out it's almost always worth replacing the clutch pack and release bearing at the same time. Clutch kits are £70-£110, plus fitting. Dacia seem to charge around £350.

So about the only external check you can make is the fluid level, and underneath the car for leaks around the transmission/clutch housing with a bright light. (Also check the wheel cylinders for leaks.)

Clutch problems are made worse by Dacia ( and other's ) policy of charging for checking stuff out even if the car is under warranty. But if it's intermittent, there's not much else they can do if no external fault is immediately evident. Hence the advice to drive it until something breaks.

You could try an independent clutch repair or Renault specialist, then take the results of that to Dacia, or pay Dacia's inspection fee, to be refunded if a fault is found. If you don't, clutch problems only ever get worse.

You haven't said which year and engine type you have. There is a small but persistent history of clutch and flywheel problems on a few of the 2013 cars, fixed on later models.
 

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I understand that 'all' the TCe/DCi UK imports from 2013 or so have hydraulic clutches.

Owners with similar problems have had the clutch master cylinder replaced with some success. The release bearing is a concentric 'slave' type on the later models.
 

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According to the Indian Team BHP site the Dacias there still have cable clutches, as did some of the early UK imports from India.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Most gear-box 'problems' start at the clutch. So if the clutch isn't releasing, the usual suspects, in order, are low fluid (check brake fluid reservoir) , air in hydraulic lines, loss of fluid pressure either at the master or slave cylinder (seals) , contaminated/worn clutch disk/springs or worn clutch/release bearing, or flywheel problems.

After fluid and cylinder checks the transmission has to come out to check flywheel and clutch etc. I don't know if the slave cylinder is accessible externally on the Dacias. If it is then diagnosis is bit simpler.

So the first cheap check would be to bleed and replace the hydraulic fluid, even if no leaks are found.

If you force the gear stick around it will cause damage to the transmission.

If the transmission has to come out it's almost always worth replacing the clutch pack and release bearing at the same time. Clutch kits are £70-£110, plus fitting. Dacia seem to charge around £350.

So about the only external check you can make is the fluid level, and underneath the car for leaks around the transmission/clutch housing with a bright light. (Also check the wheel cylinders for leaks.)

Clutch problems are made worse by Dacia ( and other's ) policy of charging for checking stuff out even if the car is under warranty. But if it's intermittent, there's not much else they can do if no external fault is immediately evident. Hence the advice to drive it until something breaks.

You could try an independent clutch repair or Renault specialist, then take the results of that to Dacia, or pay Dacia's inspection fee, to be refunded if a fault is found. If you don't, clutch problems only ever get worse.

You haven't said which year and engine type you have. There is a small but persistent history of clutch and flywheel problems on a few of the 2013 cars, fixed on later models.
Thanks for replying and sorry I've taken so long to get back to you.

It's a 2016 Sandero Stepway Ambience TCe 90 and as it's got less than 3000 miles on the clock I was kind of hoping Dacia would have been a little more helpful.

I'm sorry but to be honest I wouldn't have the foggiest idea what kind of clutch is on the car either :-(
 

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I think you almost certainly have a hydraulic clutch. If you look at the bell housing at the top rear are two cables close together for the gear selectors. At the front ( I have a 1.2 with mechanical clutch) there is another cable that operates a clutch lever. If you have a hydraulic connection to the bell housing you must have a hydraulic clutch.
 

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I think you almost certainly have a hydraulic clutch. If you look at the bell housing at the top rear are two cables close together for the gear selectors. At the front ( I have a 1.2 with mechanical clutch) there is another cable that operates a clutch lever. If you have a hydraulic connection to the bell housing you must have a hydraulic clutch.
The clutch uses a CSC (concentric slave cylinder) release bearing, where the Master Cylinder hydraulic feed pipe goes inside the bell housing and operates the 'all in one' release bearing ! ;)
 

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I have the EXACT same problem.
Started on Saturday, went to garage said if happened again to call recovery.
Returned to garage on Monday, said there was a problem,was told couldn't look at car until 6th April and to call recovery if happened again! I did say it better not happen at an inconvenient time.
Got stranded the other side of Glasgow today had to call recovery....took 2 hours
Taken to dealership told they wouldn't have time to see car this WEEK!
Asked about courtesy car....told to arrange through RAC.
The car is not even a year old......
So tonight I have no courtesy car for some reason it hasn't been arranged.
 

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Very annoying. But if the garage is booked up with other work they can't really do much unless they get a cancellation. Most do try to fit breakdowns in ASAP.

We aren't getting much feedback on the intermittent 'won't go into gear problem.' The usual fix is to replace slave and master cylinder when it might be one or the other or a 50p seal. The master cylinder is a relatively easy job.

As to the two hour wait, we had two Ford breakdowns last year, the first one was a wait of 45 minutes, the second, at 21:00 left us trapped in a deserted Ikea car park with no lights for two hours.
 

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Car been in garage for 3rd time where they have taken for test runs but problem hasn't occured with them.
I am left having to use it as it is not knowing when the gears are going seize etc
Seems to happen on longer journeys with lots of gear changes.
 

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I searched a bit on the net for inexplicable failures to gear shift while the car is running and is hot (as you said, after many gear shifts). One direction I liked is this explanation: the clutch's pressure plate has lost its properties while being very hot. Once it cools a bit (as you said, stop for 10 minutes) its elasticity is back, the clutch can separate the transmission from the engine and you can change gears. Something along the lines of "thermoelastic instability". When this phenomenon occurs, the clutch cannot be fully disengaged and the gear shift cannot happen.

I liked the hypothesis, it makes some engineering sense. Thoughts?

Do you mind telling what is your behavior with the clutch in 1st, 2nd gear and separately for higher gears? I thought to ask as I have heard many customs, some healthier than others.
 

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I searched a bit on the net for inexplicable failures to gear shift while the car is running and is hot (as you said, after many gear shifts). One direction I liked is this explanation: the clutch's pressure plate has lost its properties while being very hot. Once it cools a bit (as you said, stop for 10 minutes) its elasticity is back, the clutch can separate the transmission from the engine and you can change gears. Something along the lines of "thermoelastic instability". When this phenomenon occurs, the clutch cannot be fully disengaged and the gear shift cannot happen.

I liked the hypothesis, it makes some engineering sense. Thoughts?

Do you mind telling what is your behavior with the clutch in 1st, 2nd gear and separately for higher gears? I thought to ask as I have heard many customs, some healthier than others.
3 and 4 ok will go in but 1 aned 2 just dounr go in you have to stop the car for 5 min
 
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