Is it possible to swap the connectors to see if the fault moves or stays the same when you turn on the ignition?

 

Hi, Thanks.

Not possible to swap electronic connectors.

Before I renewed this injector, I swapped injectors over and the problem moved with the injector.

So I think this problem too is with the injector.

The error code is not referring to an electrical problem any longer, but to an actual injector problem as far as I can tell.

My OBD reader states: "problem pending" and an orange image as opposed to red on the dashboard means error pending too.

That is all I know so far.

 

Why not disconnect one of the other injectors and see if you get the same error code but for that cylinder?

 

Hi, thanks,

Because I am scared of breaking another expensive injector on another cylinder.

The people that sold me the injector (that is all they sell as specialists) said that the top of these injectors have a peizo electronic pack on the top that take over 100 Volts (yep, not the usual 12.7 volts we see on youtube videos).

I was also told not to disconnect the plug and run the engine because it could damage said electronic pack.

I have BP diesel in the tank, a load of liquid Moly diesel purge and some Cetane additive to ensure the diesel is good.

Wondering if I should just take the car for a long run and see if the Moly cleans a new injector? Perhaps some dirt got into it when I fitted it?

Then change the fuel filter AGAIN, and see if problem has gone away?

Being a P1203 error code, it does seem to be the mechanics of injector as opposed to electrical fault as I had before.

Was I sold an incorrect injector? I will have to phone them and ask I think.

Why did the error only show after the garage coded the new injector? Did they do it correctly?

They were a little dubious as to whether they had the correct software on their Snap-On OBD tool.

Lots of questions.

Are injectors a problem on these cars?

 

I was not suggesting you tried to start the engine. I had the impression you got the error just turning the ignition on.

There is no real mechanics. Peizo effect is just a crystal that distorts when a voltage is applied.

Early Crystal radios used a piezo effect ear piece as did hearing aids until the '80s when rare earth metal magnets as used in the Sony Walkman made them obsolete.

My background is elecronics not diesel engines but Peizo effect does not need 100 Volts

 

Good point about not turning the engine over. That could be a lead - no pun intended.

I do know that these injectors don't open with 12.7 volts applied; the fuel injector specialists selling them told me the electronics pack took at least 100 Volts to actuate.

An independent garage mentioned the piezo, so maybe no crystal in the pack.

 

Found this explanation of a piezo injector may help you decide which type you have:

http://www.partinfo.co.uk/articles/137

Conventional electromagnetic ones act like a solenoid valve.

 

I have been informed that:

"The ECU does a resistance check of injectors and other items at ignition on".

"It is failing self test at ignition on so it does not like the new (?) injector for some reason."

This seems to be the problem. No misfiring so all injectors are working, but what the problem is, no one seems to have an idea.

A specialist diesel place told me on the phone today it was poor engine.

 

You should be able to test resistance with a digital meter.

The web says:

Solenoid type 12 - 17 ohms.

Piezo type 150 - 210 kiloohms.

Most electronic resistance checks do not measure the resistance directly but infer it from the voltage at 1 or more points in the circuit.

 

Thanks. Even the old injector gave 200 ohms. I was told by injector specialists that as engine heated the electronic pack failed and upon cooling it would work again until hot.

hence new injector.

BUT...Another breakthrough? Or a clue perhaps.

Battery voltage

The car had poor battery when I found this problem. Whilst driving the obd reading would fluctuate and never go above 12.7 volts. New battery installed.

NOW... this error code ONLY appers after ignition is turned on WHEN cold i have just found out.

Drive the car and switch off and turn ignition on and no error on dashboard or obd reader

Return after 20 mins and ign on and fault is there.

parasitic leak from battery? low initial voltage (glow plugs using a lot of amps e.g. giving this problem?

i can look into it.

Anyone think I could be on right lines?

 

Even the old injector gave 200 ohms,

Do you mean that? 200 kiloohms = 200,000 ohms

 

No, I meant 200kohms which is the correct resistance for these injectors.

I think there is something wrong with the initial voltage; loose earth or parasitic leak.

if I wire up another good battery in parallel at next ignition turn on and fault does not occur that will tell me something, but not the whole story.

 

Worth a try but if a battery can turn over and start a diesel engine I don't think that will be your problem. Unless you are prepared to swap over injectors or have an oscilloscope to look at the trigger pulses I think your only options are:

1. If you are not trying to sell the car and convinced the engine is running properly to live with the error.

2 Take it to a dealer with the necessary diagnostic equipment.

Was your replacement new or refurbished?

 

New, OEM injector.

dealers are SO expensive. Was hoping to narrow down problem to help save them running up labour time looking.

not selling and it runs very sweetly.

thanks